Ferret Care

Ferrets have a short intestinal transit time (3 hours), and therefore only one meal change or one fasting period can make a dramatic change in the bacterial flora's environment. This is the reason that owners must be informed not to change brands or flavors of food, and also never to allow the ferret to run out of food. Ferrets need food available at all times and should never be on a feeding schedule such as a dog or cat may require. If a ferret is overweight, increasing the activity level is the optimum solution.

Ferrets are carnivores! They are prone to bladder crystals and stones if they are not on a meat-based diet, as grains create an alkaline pH in their urine, allowing crystal formation. Appropriate foods therefore are premium cat food or kitten foods, or actual ferret diets. There are no appropriate ferret foods available at present from a grocery store.

To further complicate the ferret dietary problem, ferrets generally will rebel against any food they were not exposed to as young animals. This goes beyond "finicky"! We often see extreme weight loss and life-threatening diarrhea and dehydration from something as simple as owners changing foods because they read that Purina Kitten Chow was a poor ferret diet (which is true). Owners often try to help their pet by getting Lams or Science Diet, the animal does not view the foreign substance as food, and in refusing to eat it, allows bacterial flora imbalance due to fasting to occur. Over the course of 48 hours, the animal is critically ill.

The solution? Despite your knowledge that a ferret may be creating bladder stones with each passing moment, you must refrain from making any rapid food change and Depending on the ferret's history, it may have never encountered anything other than grocery store cat food. If you have an adult ferret and do not have a history, here are a few tips to success:

A) Check for a Marshall Farms tattoo in the right car. These ferrets are weaned onto Marshall Farms ferret diet, which is available at pet stores. Not just any brand of ferret food will do, as they do not seem to taste exactly alike. In addition, often when a ferret has begun on ferret food and then tastes other grocery store delicacies, they will never go back. This is because ferret food is frequently a fish-based food that was originally designed for mink, and ferrets tend not to like fish as well as chicken or turkey. Some of the new ferret foods (such as Totally Ferret) are chicken- based and are very palatable, but Marshall's are still fish-based.

B) Offer an assortment of the most frequently fed ferret diets - Purina Kitten Chow, Tender Vittles, lams Kitten, Jams Adult Cat, and Marshall Farms ferret food. Observe closely and let the ferret tell you which it views as food. If it decides none are food, start with Hill's A'/D turkey baby food, forced if necessary to prevent hypoglycemia and hepatic lipidosis while you continue your search for this ferret's food. If you must start from something totally inappropriate, (I once had a foster ferret that had eaten only nacho cheese chips for years!) then try an Lams product, Totally Ferret, and/or Hill's Prescription A/D- these seem to be the most ferret- approved diets in our practice.

C) Make changes over several WEEKS (or even months) by mixing the ferret's preferred diet with the human's choice/choices. Yes, that means mixing Lams with nacho cheese chips if necessary! Do not blend the nuggets together, but instead make 1/2 the bowl one type and the other ½ the other food, or use two bowls. Be sure to change the non-preferred food daily so it is fresh and appealing. Some ferrets simply cannot be changed, so be patient and do not raise expectations too high. My own ferret took an entire year to show any interest in quality food!

D) Warn owners NOT to add Ferretone or tasty vitamins to the new food to make it appealing. This frequently leads to Vitamin A toxicity, and the food with vitamins will not be viewed as the same as the food without vitamins anyway.

E) Some ferrets are not finicky. Generally, this implies that they were introduced to a wide variety of foods in the first 6 months of life. Still remember that bacterial flora balance is crucial to a ferret's health, and make the change over 2-3 weeks, adding a teaspoon more of the new diet daily.

Basically, there are only a few vaccines approved for use in the ferret. These are FERVAC (United Vaccines, Inc.) for ferret distemper, and the new (and preferred here) ferret distemper by Merial Vaccines, and IMRAB (Merial Vaccines) for Rabies. A kit (a kit is a baby ferret) will need a series of distemper vaccines, with the last booster given at 16 weeks. After an initial series, vaccination is done yearly. There are veterinarians using other canine distemper vaccines or canine combination vaccines that are not only non-protective, but may also precipitate distemper in some ferrets. FERRETS ARE SO SENSITIVE TO THE CANINE DISTEMPER VIRUS THAT THEY DO NOT EVEN NEED DOG EXPOSURE TO GET DISTEMPER! Get ferrets vaccinated, because distemper in the ferret is a slow and always fatal disease! (Just be sure your vet is using a vaccine made specifically for ferrets).

Rabies does not require boosters, and in Indiana is given any time after 12 weeks of age and repeated yearly. Some states may have different ages for the initial vaccination ...

Ferrets are susceptible to canine heartworms, and should be given a monthly, NON-CHEWABLE, Ivermectin product (Heartgard). Chewable products are not recommended, as the manufacturer cannot assure that the Ivermectin is uniformly distributed. When the chewables are broken in half for animals five pounds and under, they could potentially receive the entire dosage, OR may actually receive none of the product at all.

Ferret heartworm treatment is not generally attempted due to high mortality resulting from dead worm fragments blocking vascular pathways. Supportive care with diuretics, cardiac drugs, or anti-inflammatory may provide some relief.

For ferret concerns not addressed today, feel free to contact us:

	The Cat Care Centre
	8262 Switchboard Road
	Spencer, IN 47460
	(812) 876-0711

Health (for the sake of your ferret):
Remember - when you see a problem with your ferret's health, no matter how insignificant it may seem, if it doesn't clear up in a few hours, see your veterinarian - ferrets are very small - things that go wrong happen quickly - don't let the problem become a life threatening disaster... also remember you know you ferret better than anyone and you can recognize a problem or a significant change quicker than anyone - trust your judgment.

Food and Toy Problems:
Make sure it's a good quality Kitten food or Ferret Food. . . some ferrets are fussy eaters and will eat only the food that they are accustomed to having. Some will eat anything put in front of them including your puppy's favorite latex toy or the insoles of your tennis shoes (These items are not digestible and will eventually cause a problem)

Plants:
Many are very dangerous (or fatal) to your ferret - if you have a Green Thumb, keep the plants on a high table (that can't be climbed) or hang them. In addition to the danger, you can't imagine how far the dirt in a planter can be thrown while your ferret is digging up your favorite plant. (Mistletoe berries can be fatal; Rhubarb leaf blades can be fatal in small quantities; Philodendron is very dangerous; dumb cane is very dangerous and can be fatal - just to mention a few).

Lost Ferrets:
Always protect your furry friends from getting outdoors - if they get beyond the scent area that is familiar to them, they will get lost. Remember that they have very poor eyesight. If you ferret does get out and lost, be persistent. Check with all your neighbors, call the area shelters, humane societies, animal Control and the sheriffs office. Wander around with a "squeaky toy" or rattle - any south that is one they are used to hearing. You may feel foolish, but you may also save the life of your ferret - remember that they are "fearless". Put up signs in our area - offer a reward - put out a "live trap" with your ferrets favorite treat and a blanket or towel - and check the cage often - but mainly DO NOT GIVE UP!!!!!

Potty Training:
Persevere - this is a tough problem but it can be done. Start with a large litter box in the cage - placing "accidents" in the box and cleaning the accident area with a strong disinfectant too eliminate the smell. Gradually enlarge the living or play area of the ferret continuing with the same procedure, but keep the paper towels handy.

Flea Problem:
This used to be a terrible problem, but has been reduced to an inconvenience. Fleas on your ferret are no fun, particularly for the ferret - and they are dangerous. Your ferret does not have a huge supply of blood and does not need to share it with fleas. "Advantage" for kittens has proved to be a "Miracle" for us. It is available from your veterinarian, and the dosage should be controlled by your veterinarian. This is a wonderfully simple solution to a terrible problem ... Please remember, after the product is administered, keep the ferret off your best bedspread - the fleas that will come off the ferret will create a real mess.